by Carolyne Mulherin
On a warm June evening in Florence, while most visitors are admiring the sunset from Piazzale Michelangelo or enjoying dinner in a lively piazza, many locals are taking part in a quieter tradition.
They gather flowers and herbs, either from a garden, a balcony planter, or the Tuscan countryside, and place them in a bowl of water. The bowl is then left outside overnight, under the stars and the summer air. By morning, it has become Saint John’s Water, or Acqua di San Giovanni, one of Tuscany’s oldest and most beloved traditions.
Simple, beautiful, and deeply connected to local culture, this ritual has been passed down through generations. It may not appear in every travel guide, but it offers a fascinating glimpse into the traditions that continue to shape life in Florence today.
For Travelers looking to experience the city beyond its famous landmarks, Saint John’s Water tells a story of history, community, and the enduring bond between Florence and the natural world.
A Tradition That Begins on the Eve of June 24
Every year on the evening of June 23, families across Florence and Tuscany prepare Saint John’s Water.
The process is wonderfully simple. Fresh flowers and aromatic herbs are gathered and placed in a bowl filled with water. The bowl is then left outdoors overnight, on a windowsill, balcony, terrace, or in a garden.
The next morning, June 24, people wash their hands and faces with the scented water.
For many families, the ritual symbolizes a fresh start and a positive welcome to the summer season. Others simply enjoy continuing a tradition that parents and grandparents practiced before them
What makes Acqua di San Giovanni so special is that it is not a performance for visitors or a staged historical event. It remains a living tradition that continues to be part of everyday life in many Tuscan households.
The Story Behind Saint John’s Water
Like many Italian traditions, Saint John’s Water has roots that go back centuries.
Long before Florence became the Renaissance city we know today, communities across Europe celebrated midsummer. The longest days of the year marked an important moment in the agricultural calendar, and people often celebrated with gatherings, music, flowers, and rituals connected to nature.
Over time, these seasonal customs became linked to the feast day of Saint John the Baptist, which falls on June 24.
Rather than disappearing, older traditions evolved and became part of local celebrations. The practice of leaving flowers and herbs in water overnight is one example of how ancient seasonal customs blended with Christian feast days and continued through the centuries.
Today, most people see Saint John’s Water as a cultural tradition rather than a religious ritual. It is a way to celebrate summer, spend time with family, and stay connected to local heritage.
Why Saint John Matters to Florence
To understand why this tradition remains so important, it helps to know a little about Florence itself.
Saint John the Baptist has been Florence’s patron saint for centuries. His influence can still be seen throughout the city.
One of Florence’s most famous landmarks, the Florence Baptistery, is dedicated to him. Located in front of the cathedral, it has stood at the heart of Florentine life for hundreds of years.
His image also appeared on the historic Florentine florin, the gold coin that helped makes Florence one of the most powerful cities in medieval Europe.
Even today, June 24 remains one of the most important dates on the city’s calendar. It is a day when history, culture, and local pride come together in celebration.
A Bowl Full of Summer
One of the loveliest things about Acqua di San Giovanni is that there is no strict recipe.
The ingredients often depend on what is growing locally at the time.
Many families include things such as lavender, rosemary, sage, mint, thyme, chamomile, rose petals, wildflowers, and saint john’s wort. The flowers and herbs are chosen for their fragrance, color, and the connection to the season.
In Tuscany, gathering the plants can be just as meaningful as the ritual itself. Some people collect from their gardens, while others enjoy an evening walk through the countryside to find blossoms and aromatic herbs. The result is a bowl filled with the colors and scents of a Tuscan summer.
Florence Comes Alive on June 24
If you’re visiting Florence in June, you may notice that the city feels especially festive around Saint John’s Day. That’s because June 24 is much more than a religious feast. It is one of Florence’s most important celebrations.
The streets fill with historic processions featuring participants dressed in Renaissance costumes. Drums echo through the city center, flags wave in the air, and crowds gather to watch centuries old traditions unfold.
One of the biggest events is Calcio Storico Fiorentino, held in Piazza Santa Croce. Part sport and part historical spectacle, the match is unlike anything else in Italy. The tradition dates back hundreds of years and remains a source of pride for Florentines.
As evening arrives, attention turns to the banks of Arno River, where thousands gather for the famous Fochi Di San Giovanni. The fireworks display lights up the city skyline and provides a spectacular finale to the day’s celebrations.
More Than a Tradition
What makes Saint John’s Water particularly interesting is that it reflects something essential about Tuscan culture. It is not grand or elaborate. It does not require special equipment or expensive preparations. Instead, it transforms ordinary things like flowers, herbs, water, and a summer evening into a shared experience.
In a world that often moves quickly, traditions like Acqua di San Giovanni encourage people to slow down and appreciate the changing seasons. They also help keep local history alive. Every bowl prepared on June 23 carries with it the memory of previous generations who followed the same custom, whether in Florence’s historic center or in a small Tuscan village.
Discovering Florence Beyond the Landmarks
Most visitors come to Florence for its art, architecture, and history. And rightfully so, the city is one of the world’s great cultural destinations.
But some of the most memorable travel experiences come from discovering the traditions that locals continue to celebrate today. Saint John’s Water offers exactly that opportunity.
It tells the story of Florence through its people rather than its monuments. It reveals the city’s connection to nature, its seasonal rhythms, and its centuries old customs. Most importantly, it shows that Florence is not simply a place to visit, it is a living city with traditions that continue to thrive.
If you’d like to experience this side of Florence more deeply, joining a walking tour can be a wonderful way to connect the dots between history, daily life, and local traditions like Acqua di San Giovanni. A good guide can take you beyond the main landmarks and into quieter streets, hidden courtyards, and stories that bring the city’s culture to life in a more personal way.
So, if you find yourself in Florence in late June, look beyond the museums and famous viewpoints. Take a moment to learn about Acqua di San Giovanni and the celebrations of Saint John’s Day. You may discover that a simple bowl of flowers and water reveals as much about Florence as any masterpiece hanging in a gallery. And that is often where the most authentic travel memories begin.
